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Haberdashery
A dealer or store that sells men’s apparel and furnishings, such as shirts, ties and socks. Haberdashery is said to have originated from German peddlers, who would hawk their wares by crying out, “Habedas!” or “I have that!”
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Hacking jacket
A tailored, single-breasted jacket, often in tweed, that subtly flares from the waist and usually has side vents, angled flap pockets and a three-button closure. Originally worn for horseback riding, the hacking jacket is now a classic.
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Half lining
A lining in only part of the garment. For example, half linings are an ideal way to tailor an unconstructed men’s jacket or topcoat.
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Half Windsor
Like its bigger brother, the Windsor, a necktie fastened in a more complicated and full knot than the four-in-hand with long ends left hanging one in front of the other. Named after the duke of Windsor who popularized the look in the early 1920s, the half Windsor is a sophisticated way of wearing a necktie that works best with standard shirt collars. To tie a half Windsor, follow these instructions:
1. Wrap the tie about the neck so that the wide end of the tie is on your right and extending approximately 12” below the narrow end on your left.
2. Fold the wide end over the narrow end.
3. Thread the wide end up and through the neck loop.
4. Pass the wide end around the front from the left to the right.
5. Thread the wide end up and through the neck loop once again.
6. Finally, thread the wide end through the front knot. Carefully tighten it until the knot is in its desired location.
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Halter
A woman’s top, typically held in place by a strap around the neck, that leaves the back, arms and sometimes midriff bare. Originally a popular style in beachwear and eveningwear in the 1930s, halters are now a warm-weather sportswear essential.
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Hammer loop
A fabric ring usually adorning the side seam of a pant or skirt inspired by the styling of a carpenter’s pant. Hammer loops are so called because carpenters slide their hammers through them for easy transport around the job.
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Hand
The qualities of a fabric revealed through a sense of touch. Terms like softness, crispness, dryness and silkiness all describe the hand of the fabric.
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Handwoven
Material woven on a hand-operated loom. The uneven quality of handwoven material is highly prized for certain types of garments, like tweed suits.
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Harris Tweed®
A handwoven tweed fabric made from pure virgin wool in Harris and the Outer Hebrides Islands off the coast of Scotland. Although Harris Tweed® is often imitated, real Harris Tweed® continues to bear the signature orb on its selvage that it has had since its development by Lady Dunmore in the 1840s.
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Haute couture
The term used to describe custom-made clothes. From the French haute couture, or “high sewing,” this term usually applies to women’s fine garments and has come to define a segment of the fashion industry that uses the custom-making business as a platform to explore new styles and push the boundaries of specialized dressmaking and tailoring.
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Hawaiian shirt
A button-down shirt with a generous, boxy fit that features a brightly colored pattern of fruit, flowers, exotic birds or hula dancers. The first Hawaiian shirt was designed in 1931 by Ellery J. Chun, who was inspired by the palaka garments of plantation workers and the silk shirts of high-school classmates sewn by their Japanese housekeepers from leftover kimono material. He called his original creation the “Aloha Shirt,” and within a few years, surfers, beach boys and celebrities visiting the islands had made the style an overnight sensation. Today, the Hawaiian shirt still evokes island culture and remains a fun staple for casualwear.
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heather
A yarn consisting of differently colored fibers that are blended together to give a soft, muted look. Heathered yarns are so called because they were used in early tweeds and possessed a purple cast reminiscent of heather-covered moors. Today, heather yarns are used for several fabrics and knits and continue to recall a cozy warmth, key for fall dressing.
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Hem
The finished edge or border on an item of clothing.
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Henley shirt
A lightweight collarless knit shirt with a buttoned placket at the neckline and sometimes a contrasting lining at the placket and around the neck. The name comes from the crew-racing shirts worn at Henley, the site of a famed annual rowing regatta that was established in England in 1839. Today, the Henley is a popular item in a man’s casual wardrobe.
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Heraldic
A term used to describe symbols or crests embroidered on a jacket or tie. Originally displayed on shields to identify individual or family loyalty, heraldic symbols became popular when private academies began using them on their uniforms and the look thus came to evoke preppy status.
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Herringbone
A twill fabric, usually wool, with a distinctive V pattern. So called because the pattern resembles the skeletal structure of a herring, herringbone has become a true suiting classic.
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Hip-hugger
See low-slung.
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Hippie
A term used to describe a look inspired by the culture of 1960s youths, who wore long hair, aged denims, fringed and beaded tops, crafty accessories and ethnic looks as a means of defying convention.
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Honeycomb
See waffle weave.
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Hook-and-eye
A clothes fastener consisting of a small blunt metal hook that is inserted into a corresponding embroidered eyeloop or a small metal loop on the other side.
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Horsehair
A cloth made of the hair of horses, especially from the mane or tail, that is often used as interfacing and as a means of stiffening or adding volume to a garment.
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Hot pants
An extremely short style of shorts, worn by women as an outer garment. Also called short shorts.
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Houndstooth
A fabric, usually wool, with distinctive broken checks that resemble pinwheels or, as the name implies, the jagged back teeth of a hound. Once a popular fabric for hunting clothes, houndstooth is now a menswear staple used in suits and coats. Also known as a four-and-four check.
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Hunting shirt
A bright red or red-and-black dense woolen button-down shirt. Most often worn by hunters so they can be spotted at a distance, hunting shirts have also made their way into men’s casual weekend wardrobes.
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